Cerro Torre 3133m

Patagonia, 2015

The Long Way to Cerro Torre

2013

During my first trip to Patagonia, we got lucky with the weather. After climbing the Guillaumet, a window opens for Cerro Torre, so Laure Batoz and I decide to attempt the long approach. A few days later, we climb to three pitches below the summit where we unfortunately have to turn back. We make the long descent, and I cannot stop thinking about the Cerro Torre. Soon after that, we were able to climb Fitz Roy.

2014

A year later, I want to make a second attempt on Cerro Torre with Yvonne Koch, but the weather does not cooperate. We are stuck in El Chaltén for two months. We spend the time climbing smaller routes and even helping with a big rescue operation, but the weather doesn't let up, so we have no chance to get to Cerro Torre.

2015

My third attempt—with Christina Huber! We take advantage of a spontaneous weather window and head for the mountain. Other climbers decide to wait for even better conditions, so we meet just one other climbing team at Cerro Torre. El Chaltén is hidden under thick clouds at this point, but we are lucky. We finish the ascent and stand on the summit of Cerro Torre! The descent presents an extra challenge when a completely unexpected storm rolls in; we need to get back to El Chaltén as quickly as possible. The way down takes 20 hours, and after 48 hours without sleep, we finally arrive there safely.

Caro North has now been to Patagonia several times. The climbing area around Cerro Torre is known for its extreme and capricious weather, which she has experienced firsthand. She knows that, for the best climbing, sometimes you just have to wait.